Paisans Pizzeria Cicero Pizza Review

Nizel Adams
Jul 4
6 min read

Updated: Jul 4

All it takes is one bite for controversy

Paisans pizza with sausage, pepperoni and basil

I remember having good times eating lunch with clients at the Paisans out in Berwyn, Illinois. The pizza was always fresh and that sweet sauce was to die for. It's no different out in Cicero. I've been meaning to review Paisans Pizzeria for years, but I always forget to actually write down my thoughts. Maybe the experience is so good that it makes you forget what you’re there for? Recently Dave Portnoy from Barstool sports reviewed the location out in Cicero and didn't give it a favorable rating. This generated a lot of criticism towards Paisans and the owner responded. Fox 32 Chicago also did an interview as well as a "Second Bite Review."

I've been following Dave Portnoy recently and find it hard to call what he does "reviews." In my opinion what he does is a gimmick entertainment show built around short video formats like YouTube shorts, TikTok, etc. I'd argue a disturbing portion of his reviews are influenced by his mood at the time. He rarely follows his only rule and name of the show (One Bite,) barely says anything about the pizza and clearly is biased towards New Haven style pizza where it's a crispy, overcooked (straight up burnt/blackened in a lot of cases) pizza with very little toppings outside of cheese. My thoughts that his review of Paisans' being totally unfair especially since he clearly was in a bad mood and complained about our Chicago weather inspired me to finally work on mine.

I ordered my current favorite (traditional crust with basil, sausage and pepperoni.) Usually, I have ground beef instead of sausage as it meshes better with the basil. Sometimes I add giardiniera for an extra kick. The pizza was out of the door fairly quickly. This was surprising to me because usually at night Paisans can take over an hour to get a pizza out due to being so busy. It's especially impressive because this is the middle of Summer when everybody is outside.

"I've been following Dave Portnoy recently and find it hard to call what he does "reviews."

The pizza smells like a bakery even at home. If you've ever lived next to a bread factory like I have, then you know what I'm talking about. It doesn't get better than that. With other pizzerias you'll typically smell the grease, meat or sauce in lieu of the crust. It's not your typical thin crust, overcooked to a crisp, greasy mess that you'll find at a pizzeria like a Rosati's and many other Chicago style pizza joints. Paisans' crust is slightly airy with a slight crisp on the bottom. It's almost like pita bread. The crust is not meant to be “burnt” so it’s usually features a slight gold to light brown almost whiteish gradient. This is a misconception I see with the criticism of the dough. It seems most people don’t realize that golden brown or blackened bread doesn’t mean it’s “cooked.” The act of browning something means you’re developing the surface level crust by OVERCOOKING/BURNING IT which is why only the surface is affected and the inside is still white. It’s almost as if these people have never had a flour tortilla in their life.

The moment you bite into a slice, a wave of that sweet sauce hits your tongue. This prepares you for the incoming flavor bomb of cheese and meat. Paisans is one of those pizzerias that prides itself on its sauce akin to Tombstone. The paired meats, cheese, etc. are all meticulously chosen to not outshine the sauce. Unlike lesser pizzerias you can still taste each ingredient. They combine into an overall satisfying pizza. I did notice that the basil was sliced into smaller bits and spread out unlike years prior where they'd bake whole leaves. This leads to a much less potent basil flavor which was disappointing although I can understand why they did it. The cheese is perfectly browned and spread evenly. Paisans doesn't skimp on toppings at all. From the dashes of Italian seasoning to the sauce, everything looks amazing.

"The pizza smells like a bakery even at home. If you've ever lived next to a bread factory like I have, then you know what I'm talking about."

The thicker crust with its baking holes and slightly golden tinge reminds me of a Ritz cracker. It definitely fills you up quick although it's nowhere near as bready as a Detroit style pizza or even Bacci's, but has a definitive edge in terms of taste. It won't beat a butter crust and probably won't be something you'd eat by itself, but it pairs almost perfectly when combined with the other ingredients. It doesn't get soggy and isn't floppy. My only gripe being that when fresh out of the oven it is a bit chewy. Not in an undercooked way either. It's more like it's a bit thick and therefore tough to chew. As the pizza cools, the crust becomes firmer, making it easier to chew. After about an hour you get that perfect chew with each bite.

Is it better a more delicious pie than Albano's out in Cicero as well? No. Is it better than Rosangela's? Yes. Giordano's? I would argue as far as thin crust yes. Home Run Inn? Yes. Lou Malnati's? In my opinion yes albeit Lou Malnati’s is a completely different style of pizza and an acquired taste (at least to me.) My argument would be that with the smaller, lesser-known restaurants, especially ones like Albano's that aren't franchised (the second pizzeria closed,) they have to put in more effort to get people in the door while the larger, well known pizza spots have fallen way off due to them relying more on brand recognition than food quality and consistency. Large chains also tend to cut costs as they expand in-order to head off the increased overhead expenses. Those cost cutting methods usually mean food quality goes out the window. I've always said Home Run Inn's frozen pizza is five times better than the restaurant due to consistency. Paisans has expanded a bit over the years, but hasn't sacrificed quality to where it is noticeable.

"Is it better than Rosangela's? Yes. Giordano's? I would argue as far as thin crust yes. Home Run Inn? Yes."

Overall I think Paisans has a lot to offer. If you're a fan of sweet sauce, then this place should be the standard. I put Paisans as the standard for where pizza in general should be. It's not going to knock your socks off, but it's damn good. They do need to reconsider their pricing though. They are just about the same as Home Run Inn's ridiculous prices and only outshined by Nancy's pizza. They are also one of the only pizzerias that has basil (whole fresh leaves, not the dried basil that you get from the store) so it's definitely worth a try.

4.5 out of 5 stars

⭐⭐⭐⭐✭

Nizel Co. Exclusive Pizza Tests (you won't find these on Yelp, Google, etc:)

Cold Test -

Paisans Pizza still tastes almost the exact same without heating up if not slightly better after it's been refrigerated overnight. This is what I say separates champions from contenders.

Reheat Test -

Sprinkle a little bit of water on it to melt the cheese perfectly. Great cheese pull and tastes almost as fresh as when it was initially baked. The taste of the crust and sweet sauce has faded a bit so your taste buds become more engaged with the meat and cheese which honestly gives it a more traditional Chicago pizza flavor. I can't lie it tastes better this way. I love it!

Condiment Pairings -

Adding a bit of parmesan gives a bit more depth to the cheese, but is totally unnecessary as is red pepper flakes. The pizza itself does pair extremely well with Louisiana hot sauce whether it be the actual Louisiana brand or Walmart branded hot sauce. The hot sauce adds more to the flavor profile, balancing out the sweetness to make it a more well-rounded pizza pie. I tried some odd pairings like horseradish sauce and coleslaw, but both fell flat on their faces.